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My Kinda' Living > Homemaking > Gardening

Tips For Growing Amaryllis

The amaryllis is a bulbous plant with ornamental and exotic-looking flowers that is relatively easy to grow. For a minimum amount of effort you will receive a large reward of beautiful flowers. Amaryllis are popular plants because they can be made to bloom both indoors and out. Originally they were indigenous to various tropical regions around South America – from Argentina all the way to the Caribbean – but now they can be grown almost anywhere. There are many different colors of amaryllis, including white, red, pink, orange, salmon, and even pale green, along with multicolored and striped varieties.

The botanical name for amaryllis is ‘Hippeastrum,’ which is a Latin word that means “horseman’s star” or “knight’s star.” The planting period of amaryllis usually ranges from October to April, and the bulbs will produce flowers for up to 70 years if they are properly taken care of. Because they can be grown either in your garden, or as a potted plant, this article provides tips for both – even though indoor growing is currently the most popular.

There are said to be five basic types of hippeastrum or amaryllis:
  1. Miniature
  2. Cybister
  3. Single flower
  4. Double flower
  5. Trumpet
During the winter holidays and on Easter, the single and double flower types are the most common kinds of amaryllis sold in flower shops. The cybister is an unusual type since it has very thin petals that make it resemble a spider.

When ordering bulbs, always choose the larger ones so you will get bigger flowers. And make sure the bulbs are firm and greenish white in color. Don’t buy soft or dry bulbs or those that have bluish mold, and don’t be surprised to see that the bulbs have onion-like layers. If your bulbs arrive but you aren’t quite ready to plant them yet, simply wash them thoroughly and put them in a dark place with temperatures between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Storing them in the bottom of your refrigerator is ideal. But don’t put them anywhere near apples because they will make the bulbs ineffective.

Use a potting compost that contains a lot of nutrients, along with some sand. You can make your own by using one part coarse sand, one part manure compost, and one part soil. Or you can buy a mixture especially for bulbs at your local gardening center to make it easier. The pH of the soil should be around 6.0 to 6.7.

To plant the bulbs, push them down into the soil until it is up to the neck of the bulb – leave about one half above the surface, and be sure not to damage the roots in anyway. Pack the soil down around the bulb. Small pots are better for amaryllis, one that is only four or five inches will be ideal. Put some gravel in the bottom of the pot so the amaryllis’s roots can attach to the rocks. They will grow better if they are rootbound. Water thoroughly after planting, and continue to keep the soil moist.

Heat is required for the stems to develop, so place the bulbs where there is a lot of light and a temperature of about 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Give them a little water until you can see the stem developing. Then when the foliage starts to appear give them more water. The stem will start to shoot out quickly by this point. When it reaches full height the flowers will start to bloom.

Fertilizer is important for the size of your flowers. You can use a liquid fertilizer for potted amaryllis, but give them only about half of the listed amount. For your garden, use a low nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10. If desired you can use a bulb booster fertilizer. It will usually take the bulbs about 8 to 10 weeks to fully flower. In colder weather it will take longer. It is ideal to start in October so you can have the amaryllis flowering by spring. The blooming period usually extends from the end of December to the end of June.

Place potted amaryllis near a large window so they can get enough light. If you need to supplement the amount of light, put a 100-watt bulb near them for a few hours in the evening. As soon as there is no threat of frost, you can replant the amaryllis outside if you desire.

When flowers start to wither, cut them back to two inches above the base and leave them so the bulbs can store up food for the next year. For the potted variety, cut off the wilted foliage when it starts drooping, which will be around October. Place the pot in a dry warm area until about January. Then give the plant no care at all during this period. They have to go through a dormant stage before they can start growing again. In January, move the pot near a large window and add water and fertilizer. Soon the amaryllis will be on its way to flowering once again.

For outside plants, continue fertilizing and watering your amaryllis for five to six months. Around early fall the foliage will begin to dull and turn yellow. Cut away all foliage to a couple of inches from the top of the bulb, then take the bulb out of the soil.

If you ever notice red spots on the leaves or flowers that look burnt or scorched, your amaryllis have a disease called “red blotch.” This distorts the shape of the leaves, and also causes red spots on the bulbs, which makes them rot. To prevent red blotch, spray the bulbs with Benlate fungicide or another type of red blotch fungicide before you plant them. If you see red blotch later forming on the foliage, spray them about once a week to help fight the disease.

Insects don’t usually bother amaryllis, but occasionally grasshoppers might be a problem, so be on the lookout for them.

If your amaryllis ever fails to bloom, it may be due to one or more of these problems:
  1. High nitrogen in the fertilizer.
  2. Moving or planting bulbs before the foliage has fully wilted.
  3. Red blotch disease.
  4. Soil not well-draining.
  5. Too much shade or too much sun
A few additional facts about Amaryllis:
  • There are about 75 different species of Hippeastrum, along with more than 600 cultivars and hybrids. One plant can produce anywhere from two to fifteen flowers.
  • The Honorable Reverend William Herbert, Dean of Manchester, chose the name “Hippeastrum,” which is Latin for “horseman’s star” in 1837, probably because the buds of amaryllis looked slightly similar to a horse’s ear when they were starting to blossom, and also because they resemble stars with six points.
  • In the 18th century, Dutch growers brought several species of Hippeastrum from South America to their country to develop various hybrids. Later, two Dutchmen relocated to South Africa and began growing amaryllis there.
  • There are usually 12 to 15 new hybrids of amaryllis developed every year. If you want to order your bulbs online, you should do it in the summer to guarantee you’ll get the ones you really want (make sure your online store accepts advanced orders).
     
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